For a city that wasn’t exactly top of my mentally mapped out ‘Want-To-Visit List’, Rome did a pretty alright job of absolutely exceeding every expectation and filling me with magical wanderings and magical pizzas. It was my third visit to this city, yet I somehow was seeing it through fresh eyes (though, not in the laser eye surgery, or contact lenses kinda way of having fresh eyes). Yes it was mid-July and tourists were scurrying around like little ants, and yes, I had enough sweat to fill a bathtub after making our way from the airport to our apartment, but Rome could really do no wrong. It was also the city where I met this boyfriend of mine after having not seen him for 6 months so, y’know, that was good too.
Rome is a place to lose yourself in the back-cobblestoned-streets without knowing where they’ll lead, to lunch in a tiny sandwich joint where old men sip espressos while reading the paper and waiters don’t speak english, and to use your hands while saying molto bene, grazie, ciao and dovè l’ufficio postale per favore? (except, only use that last one if you’ve got some postcards and are on the lookout for a post office, otherwise, that would be a strange thing to ask).
food
Rome is also a place where the term ‘diet’ is a laughable piece of vocabulary. Our time there began with pizza and ended with pasta, and gelato/coffee/pastries/paninis/more pizza filled the days in between. My favourite haunts were unsurprisingly in the beautiful area where we were staying, Trastevere (prior research before booking had led to the finding that Trastevere was an upcoming foodie/drinkie delight, so it was a kind of no-brainer when we found an AirBnB located in the centre of this spot of Rome). Two particular highlights spring to mind: Pizza at Ai Marmi – where you can watch waiters walk briskly around the huge establishment with 8 trays piled high on their left arm; and Bar Lillo – a ‘locals-only’ kinda vibe emanating from this nothing-looking cafe, that served us no nonsense paninis, true Italian coffee and a morning cornetto.
{you’ll find all the good deets after a lengthy scroll through the pics below}
streets.
We fell in love with the streets of Rome. Some are the setting for thousand-year-old structures sitting casually; others are for markets or faire du promenade; many are lined with quintessentially Italian cars; and then there’s the one where a violin was just nonchalantly propped against the water pipe, apparently without an owner. I had never found the streets of Rome quite so charming.
sights.
Blake and I didn’t make the ‘attractions’ of Rome our absolute priority – you always need to leave a reason to come back, and I think that getting a feel for the daily life culture of a city is just as good as ticking off those TripAdvisor ‘Must-Sees’. But, that’s not to say we skipped it altogether. No matter how much the Colosseum is talked up, it reaches all levels of awe and magnificence. As does the Pantheon. Although you won’t go ten meters without a tour guide offering you the ‘absolute best deal!!!’ on their Vatican City tour, St Peter’s Basilica really is a church worth seeing. We whacked on Rick Steves while queuing in the mile-long line (would recommend!) and marvelled at the craziness of how much ($ and time and detail) has gone into this basilica. Vila Borghese, although perhaps not on everyone’s radar, is a great patch of land to escape to when crowds get too overwhelming and/or when you feel like driving a motorised cart like a 10km/hr absolute hoon.
good deets:
Pizzeria Ai Marmi
Viale di Trastevere, 53
6:30pm – 2:30am; closed Wednesdays
Tip: GO HERE.
Bar Lillo
Via dei Genovesi, 39
6:00am – 9:00pm; closed Sundays
Order a panini from the window display; they’re simple yet so effective in making your stomach happy.
Fatamorgana Gelato
Via Roma Libera, 11 (Piazza San Cosimato)
There’s actually a few of these guys dotted around the city, but word on the street is that this one in Trastevere is a few pennies cheaper. Plus, it’s in Trastevere, period. Go for something like the Black Rice + Rose, or the Walnuts, Rose Petals + Violet Flowers. The sadness of knowing I don’t have a Fatamorgana in front of me right now is overwhelming.
Biscottificio Innocenti
Via della Luce, 21
8:00am – 8:00pm; hours differ Sundays
On a small, quiet Trastevere street lies the BEST Italian cookies you’d wish to try. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped into the ultimate Grandma’s kitchen.
Le Mani In Pasta
Via dei Genovesi, 37
12:30 – 3:00pm; 7:30 – 11:30pm; closed Mondays
Seafood pasta that we fell in love with. Arrived at 9pm without a booking, seated at 9:30pm. You’ll get friendlier service if you’re less stingy than us and order more than just pasta + water. But, delicious regardless.